We've got all sorts of stuff for the boss/captain/sheriff in your life. Check out magazines, books, gifts, cards and superhero masks. And hurry. Father's Day is on 19th June.
Orslow, our latest addition to the basement, is a homage to Japanese design, quality and construction. Which is no surprise as designer Ichiro Nakatsu is meticulous about combining traditional techniques with contemporary style. Ichiro built his career in the world-famous denim production centre in Kojima Okayama. He started Orslow in 2005, naming it to reflect the slower (clever, huh), careful way he made jeans, rebelling against the frenzied pace of modern fashion production.
His passion for denim started at an early age with a pair of dark overalls given to him by his mother. Wearing them everyday, he was fascinated by their fade and, as he puts it, the “ colour and texture of worn clothes; and the atmosphere they exude.” He began making his own jeans at home by taking apart old clothes and mirroring their construction.
The same careful craftsmanship is applied today and all the sewing machines in his atelier are in full use - from 1940's vintage models to the latest digital machines. Most of his collections reflect his casual take on traditional workwear and military garments from the 19th and 20th century. Contemporary clothes for those that love that extra bit of attention to detail.
Founded in 2011 by surfing friends Andre Bastos Teixeira and Jose Miguel de Abreu, La Paz is a menswear collection from Portugal. The collection is in part a study of traditional clothing and production techniques but also a celebration of place. Classic marine styles are reinterpreted for a contemporary market and there's a real Atlantic feel in the colours and detailing. We asked Andre and Jose to give us a flavour of their enviable life in Porto with an Instagram edit.
Menswear brands for Spring/ Summer 2016 at The Hambledon:
AnonymousIsm, Arpenteur, Baracuta, Barena, Beams +, Buzz Rickson's, Carhartt, Champion, Champion by Todd Snyder, Converse, Edwin, Engineered Garments, Engineered Garments Workaday, Filson, Gitman Vintage, Grenson, Hawksmill, Howlin', Iron Heart, La Paz, L.V.C., Merz b. Schwanen, Moscot, Norse Projects, Novesta, Oliver Spencer, Orslow, Our Legacy, Patagonia, Portuguese Flannel, Rains, Red Wing, Sunspel, Tanner, Trickers, Universal Works, Woolrich
Rob's been in New York (and he had to fly early to avoid the crazy snowstorm and we're not jealous, nope. Not at all). He's been scouting international menswear for us at the Liberty Fair, Capsule and the Man Show. And checking out US showrooms for Engineered Garments, Gitman and Universal Works. He has also been having a very nice time wandering the streets of Manhattan, Brooklyn and Williamsburg. Sister Sandy's friends Emma and Roger provided top B&B in Carroll Gardens. The New York Knicks and Oklahoma City Thunder (result in overtime went Oklahoma's way 122-128) was the sporting highlight; Shuto Okayasu's private view at the Nepenthes store the cultural highlight and walking the High Line the horticultural highlight. David Keyte at Universal Works and all the girls at Meri Meri (in the city for the gift fair) were excellent dinner dates. A good time was had by all.
It's looking like an action packed Christmas for the boys: chopping wood, hiking and exploring and a little artistic endeavour in the form of the Superhero Comic Kit. You can't not.
Arpenteur (French for 'surveyor' if you're interested), was founded by cousins Marc Asseilly and Laurent Bourven in Lyon in 2011. Wearing its French heritage on its very neatly designed sleeve, inspired by traditional French workwear and with a commitment to keeping all garment production based in France, Asseilly and Bourven have grown a business with 98% of sales to international territories. Arpenteur is a brand which delights in its Frenchness (2% of sales within France suggest this is somewhat wasted on the French but enormously popular in other parts of Europe, the States and particularly Japan).
Autumn 2015 sees Arpenteur collaborating with Filature Arpin, a family owned business which has been weaving wool in Seez Saint Bernard in Eastern France since 1817. The Bonneval cloth, which is unique to the Arpin mill, is a dense, robust fabric, named in honour of a famous mountain guide of the 19th Century, Pape du Bonneval sur Arc. The cloth is traditionally used to make shepherds' capes and knickerbockers. But Asseilly and Bourven have a more modern interpretation with their waistcoat and overcoat. Homage to the region comes in the form of a mountain hat.
Martin Magnusson started making gloves for local lumberjacks in 1936. The early incarnation of the business was based in a workshop in Magnusson's farmhouse in the village of Hestra, Smaland (a province in the south of Sweden, known for lakes, dense forests and marshlands). In 1937, a ski slope opened nearby, Magnusson's sons Lars-Olof and Gote became keen skiers and the family identified a new market for their high quality, durable gloves. Today the company makes 400 different styles, still serving the early adopting lumberjack, the downhill skier (both the Swedish and the Norwegian ski teams wear Hestra) and all points between.
Although Hestra produces 2 million pairs of gloves annually, they still manufacture from their own factories in Smaland with hand making techniques on some models. The technical possibilities available in glove manufacturing today are great. However, making gloves for different needs and environments requires a special set of skills. The demands of mountaineers are different from the needs of a family of half term skiers. Fighter pilots have certain requirements, while kayak paddlers have others.This means that finding the right balance between aspects like durability, cold and moisture resistance and flexibility is extremely important. Simply maximizing the properties – durability, water resistance and insulation – seldom results in a good glove. Whilst we like to think of ourselves as elite athletes at The Hambledon, we're leaving the very technical gloves to the experts. We are all about the deerskin with the Primaloft lining.
Our annual, exclusive collaboration with Tricker's has just arrived in store. Based on the classic Tricker's shoe, coincidentally called Robert (although our Rob assures me this has nothing to do with his choice of style), we have two options. Check out burgundy calf upper with natural welt or espresso calf with self coloured welt (a cleaner finish). Both have dainite sole units. Both have choice of three laces. Both have blind eyelets (no metal rings). Both are £370. And both are limited edition. So hurry on over.
Tricker's Shoes have been handmade in Northampton for 180 years and the company is still run, five generations later, by the Baltrop family. They have one 'Quality Standard' so every shoe undergoes the same rigorous production process of 250 separate operations from start to finish.